{"id":14660,"date":"2017-11-11T18:42:35","date_gmt":"2017-11-11T23:42:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sothebysrealty.ca\/insightblog\/?p=14660"},"modified":"2018-02-23T18:10:41","modified_gmt":"2018-02-23T23:10:41","slug":"quebec-citys-most-celebrated-chefs","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sothebysrealty.ca\/insightblog\/en\/2017\/11\/11\/quebec-citys-most-celebrated-chefs\/","title":{"rendered":"Quebec City’s Most Celebrated Chefs"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nothing is more certain than a brutal winter in Quebec. But the cold \u2014 even at its extreme \u2014 does not stop Quebec City\u2019s most celebrated chefs from filling their menus with the freshest ingredients possible. These are chefs who forage for vegetables, hunt for precious fungi and swoon over the best of artisanal meats and cheeses imaginable. They know their terroir and appreciate the uniqueness of their province\u2019s rich culinary heritage and independent purveyors.<\/p>\n

Of course, going seasonal in a season hardly known for its bounty certainly has its challenges. And that\u2019s where foresight \u2014 and strong doses of imagination and ingenuity \u2014 makes all the difference.<\/p>\n

Take Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Laplante, whose Quebec City eatery L\u00e9gende par la Tani\u00e8re has emerged at the forefront of Quebec\u2019s hyper-local\/hyper- seasonal vanguard. Set in the Old City, close to the antiques district, L\u00e9gende is known for its use of sous-vide (precision-driven vacuum- packed cooking), which turbocharges flavour, enhancing the culinary experience.<\/p>\n

In the summer, sous vide helps propel ultra- fresh food to even greater flavour heights. But, it\u2019s in winter, Laplante notes, that this cooking method can really come in handy. \u201cDuring cold months, we switch to a menu that\u2019s more hearty and comfort-food styled \u2014 the food of our ancestors.\u201d he says. For Laplante, this means mushrooms, squashes and root vegetables like carrots, beets and celery root \u2014 all sourced from tiny farms and hothouses near Quebec City or Montreal and specializing in winter produce.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

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Laplante pairs these vegetables with regional fish, beef or deer, which he prepares via sous-vide to extract every bit of taste. He then accents the proteins with herbs and berries harvested in warmer months and then preserved for winter. \u201cItems come in fresh and beautiful, and then the marinade brings out other flavours,\u201d he says. Laplante has also recently been exploring unusual protein sources, like crickets, which he grinds into a powder as a filling for ravioli. \u201c[Here], we remain true to the region, so there is no chocolate or lemon, but lots of maple syrup.\u201d<\/p>\n

Close by is chef Mathieu Brisson\u2019s bistro-style restaurant, Le Clocher Pench\u00e9, considered one of the most romantic in town, particularly for brunch. Like Laplante, Brisson maintains an almost cult-like adherence to locally sourced ingredients, especially in winter. \u201cWe even have one purveyor who grows beets, squash and potatoes in specially designed dark rooms right in his home.\u201d<\/p>\n

Brisson concedes that ultra-green dishes, like simple salads, can be tough to prepare in the cold season (\u201cI may even import some organic varieties from the U.S.,\u201d he admits). But the biggest change at Le Clocher Pench\u00e9 in winter is the sheer number of dishes on offer. \u201cIn the summer we might change the menu every other week and alter dishes each day, depending on what\u2019s available,\u201d he says. \u201cBut in winter we don\u2019t switch things up as much.\u201d <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

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This means more reliance on hearty staples such as fruit jams and fragrant garlic preserves, as well as plenty of tasty cheeses, which have become a distinctly Qu\u00e9b\u00e9cois staple, too. \u201cIt\u2019s all kept in a cool room,\u201d Brisson explains, \u201calong with lots of veggies that we harvest in the summer.\u201d<\/p>\n

And then there\u2019s the cheekily named L\u2019affaire est Ketchup, a tiny eight-table eatery where young, hip chefs Fran\u00e7ois Jobin and Olivier Lescelleur Saint-Cyr use an electric stove to cook their modern take on traditional dishes. The restaurant \u2014 which was featured on celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain\u2019s travel and food show on CNN, Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown \u2014 takes its name from the French idiom for \u201ceverything is cool,\u201d and Jobin and Lescelleur Saint-Cyr certainly live by this maxim. Dishes are presented on a simple black chalkboard, and come wintertime, the chefs rely heavily on local meats such as boar, foie gras and even guinea fowl.<\/p>\n

Dishes, like mega-indulgent bone marrow, are stuffed with all-season goodies that include carrots and onions, while the hearty, cool-weather stews \u2014 think along the lines of classic qu\u00e9b\u00e9cois blanquette (here made with pork rather than veal) \u2014 are spiked with quail egg, onion and mushrooms. Many of the menu offerings are family favourites, perfect for sustaining life through the seemingly endless Quebec winters.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

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WHERE THE CHEFS GET THE GOODS<\/strong><\/p>\n

Laplante at L\u00e9gende par la Tani\u00e8re likes Laiterie Charlevoix<\/strong>, a traditional dairy in Baie-Saint-Paul, where folks can visit sample and purchase Qu\u00e9b\u00e9cois cheeses all season long. laiteriecharlevoix.com<\/a><\/p>\n

L’Affaire est Ketchup’s chefs are such avid fans of \u00c9levage des peigeonnaux Turlo<\/strong> that they even named one of their dishes after this meat purveyor in Saint-Gervais – porc de la femme turlo. pigeonneauxturlo.com<\/a><\/p>\n

Fromagerie des Grondines<\/strong>, in Deschambault-Grondines, is one of the vendors chef Brisson at Le Clocher Pench\u00e9 swears by, for cheeses and also the shop’s delicate rhubarb juice. fromageriedesgrondines.com<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

\n

By Chris Taylor – *This article originally appeared in INSIGHT: The Art of Living | Winter 2017<\/a><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Photos: Le Clocher Pench\u00e9<\/p><\/blockquote>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Nothing is more certain than a brutal winter in Quebec. But the cold \u2014 even at its extreme \u2014 does not stop Quebec City\u2019s most celebrated chefs from filling their menus with the freshest ingredients possible. These are chefs who forage for vegetables, hunt for precious fungi and swoon over the best of artisanal meats and cheeses imaginable. They know their terroir and appreciate the uniqueness of their province\u2019s rich culinary heritage and independent purveyors.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":31,"featured_media":14662,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[394],"tags":[92,255,331,371,409,483,664,704],"class_list":["post-14660","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-insight-magazine","tag-montreal-2","tag-quebec","tag-sothebys","tag-sothebys-international-realty-canada","tag-insight-magazine","tag-insight-the-art-of-living","tag-insight-winter-2017","tag-culinary"],"yoast_head":"\nQuebec City's Most Celebrated Chefs<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Travel to where food is fiercely protected and enjoyed with wild abandon and discover Quebec City's most celebrated chefs.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, 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